Bordeaux & Paris | France 2022

Our first European adventure with the boys after COVID took us to Bordeaux, France, a region we’d long dreamed of visiting. Since purchasing our restaurant a few years earlier, we’d become increasingly immersed in the world of wine, and Bordeaux—with its centuries of winemaking history—felt like the perfect destination. We carefully arranged tours at several wineries we already carried at the restaurant, eager to connect the bottles on our shelves with the legendary estates behind them.

We based ourselves at Domaine de Larchey, a charming 19th-century château-turned-hotel surrounded by tranquil countryside. The grounds were serene and lush, and our suite—two bedrooms and a stunning bathroom—was both elegant and cozy, the perfect retreat after days spent exploring. Just minutes away, the little town of Martillac offered our first taste of French dining on this trip. As chefs, eating French food in France always feels like a homecoming. We savored chef-driven menus in intimate bistros, delighting in how French cooks pair simple, seasonal ingredients in surprising and beautiful ways.

Our first winery visit took us to Château LaRoque in Saint-Émilion, a medieval town and UNESCO World Heritage Site renowned for its monolithic church and cobblestone streets. The château itself, with origins dating back to the Middle Ages, once served a protective role for the surrounding community. The property’s dry moat still hints at its former function as a fortress before becoming one of the area’s most respected wine estates. We were struck by the small scale of the operation—just 20 full-time employees tending to land and legacy alike. After our tour, we wandered the medieval streets of Saint-Émilion, marveling at staircases worn smooth by centuries of footsteps. We couldn’t resist picking up a box of the town’s famous macarons, whose recipe dates back to the 17th century.

From there, we drove through Pomerol, pausing for a quick photo at the gates of Pétrus, one of the most celebrated (and expensive) wines in the world. Back at the hotel, the boys were entertained by the novelty of an automatic lawn mower, while we enjoyed a refreshing dip in the pool—a perfect end to the day.

The next morning brought us to Château Mauvesin Barton in the Médoc. This estate, owned by the Barton family since 2011, has deep ties to the historic Château Léoville Barton—a winery we proudly feature at our restaurant. The Barton family, originally Irish, has been rooted in Bordeaux winemaking since the 18th century, and it was incredible to see how they continue to honor that tradition at Mauvesin. Afterward, we enjoyed a delicious lunch in the wine village of Lynch-Bages, another name synonymous with Bordeaux excellence.

In the afternoon, we toured Château Cos d’Estournel, one of my personal favorites. Founded in 1811 by Louis-Gaspard d’Estournel, the château is instantly recognizable for its striking architecture, complete with exotic pagodas and its signature elephant motifs. To our delight, the staff created a scavenger hunt for the boys, challenging them to count the elephants hidden around the property. Inside, the wine cellar was unforgettable—a futuristic space where barrels are displayed beneath an elevated platform, giving the impression of walking through something straight out of X-Men’sCerebro.

That evening, we treated ourselves to a fine dining experience back at the hotel. While the food was exquisite, the boys quickly decided it was just a little too fancy for their taste, which made for some lighthearted family memories.

Our final winery stop was Château Pichon-Longueville Baron, one of Pauillac’s most iconic estates. The château, with its twin turrets and elegant 19th-century architecture, is as grand as the wines it produces. We loved hearing how the property’s history is tied to that of its neighbor, Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, as the original estate was split between two siblings in the 19th century. Today, both produce world-class Bordeaux wines, and visiting in person brought that story vividly to life.

Renting a car proved essential for this trip. It gave us the freedom to explore small towns at our own pace, including a charming riverside village in Pauillac, where we wandered quiet streets and soaked in the laid-back atmosphere.

We also spent an afternoon in Bordeaux City, a bustling hub of history and culture. The architecture reflected the wealth that once poured into the region during the 18th century, when Bordeaux was among Europe’s busiest ports. We toured the Bordeaux Cathedral (Cathédrale Saint-André), a Gothic masterpiece where Eleanor of Aquitaine married Louis VII in 1137. Beneath the church, we explored the ancient crypt and foundations, connecting us to nearly a thousand years of history. The boys loved running around Jardin Public, a leafy park originally created in 1746 as a place for relaxation and recreation. Its shaded paths, duck ponds, and playgrounds made it the perfect balance to all the wine and history.

When it was time to move on, we boarded a train bound for Brussels, but not before making a detour in Paris. Since our transfer connected there anyway, we carved out time to whisk the boys by taxi to see the Eiffel Tower. Watching their faces light up as they craned their necks skyward and snapped picture after picture was worth every minute of the detour. They loved their brief taste of Paris and are already counting the days until we return.

This Bordeaux adventure was everything we hoped it would be—wines steeped in centuries of history, meals that inspired us as chefs, and moments that made travel magical for the whole family.